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Normandy Gastro Guide by Trish Deseine

Trish Deseine

Belfast born Trish Deseine studied Modern Languages before moving to Paris where she spent over 30 years raising her family, working in fashion, marketing and PR.

In 2000 Trish wrote her first cookbook “Petits Plats entre Amis”. Now an award winning author Trish has 35 books in both English and French and has 5 World Gourmand Awards.

Trish has also presented 3 cookery series for Irish broadcaster RTE and more recently has 2 productions with BBCNI.

Gastro Guide by Trish Deseine

Dublin Bay - Howth Head

 

Slane Castle

Once you’ve arrived in Ireland (not that I might be biased, coming as I do from Co. Antrim!), why not head north instead of south or west as you drive off the ship, and discover some of the country’s hidden foodie gems?

Just an hour’s drive north of Dublin port is the majestic Slane Castle. Built in 1785, famous for its rock gigs since the ‘90s when Lord Henry Mount Charles started inviting superstars (Bowie, U2, The Rolling Stones…) to play in the natural ampitheatre behind his ancestors’ castle, the castle and parts of the 1500 acre estate are open to the public. You can glamp on the 90 acre organic farm managed by Alex and Corina Conyngham (Earl and Countess of Mount Charles), take guided tours around the castle, follow walking trails in the grounds and enjoy food and drink from the Silver Fox Food Truck in the courtyard. Most importantly perhaps for epicurean visitors, adjacent to the castle is Slane Distillery where you can discover how Slane’s triple distilled whiskey is made and do some tasting and buying.

A short drive from Slane, just outside Kells, is Sheridan Cheesemongers’ HQ, housed in the old Virginia Road Station with a warehouse shop, offices and maturing rooms. Every Saturday they host a small market for local producers and on the last Sunday of every May is held their now famous Irish Food Festival, celebrating the best of Irish food. Their selection of Irish cheeses is next to none, of course, but you’ll also find interesting charcuterie and deli items for all your picnic needs. Not far, a fun place to overnight is Sheelin’s Shepherd’s hut, set in peaceful fields overlooking Lough Sheelin. A brand new, beautifully appointed tiny house, with everything you could need to feel cosy and looked after, including a well-equipped kitchen and nicely stocked fridge.

Enniskillen Castle

Next stop, Fermanagh. After the simplicity of a shepherd’s hut, book in to some luxury at Lough Erne resort, either in the sumptuous five star hotel, or in one of their comfortable golf cottages. Or if you prefer to stay in an altogether grander type of Irish architecture, Crom or Belle Isle Castles are for you.

In Enniskillen town, check out new artisan deli, Between the Bridges, as well as Joe The Baker’s superb sourdough and O’Doherty’s famous Fermanagh black bacon, made from ‘happy’ pigs who roam freely on Inishcorkish Island on Upper Lough Erne. Have a pint in characterful Blakes of the Hollow, one of Ireland’s oldest pubs or take a walking tour ‘Taste Experience’ with guide Mark Edwards. You could also join Mark and skipper Barry aboard an all new passenger waterway boat and discover the history and beauty of the Erne Waterway while being treated to a food and drink tasting menu entirely produced in the Fermanagh Lakelands.

From Enniskillen, a 45 minute drive takes you to the Wild Atlantic Distillery and Gin School in Co. Tyrone. Spend a day learning about the distilling process, enjoying a gin and tonic with a light lunch, and making your very own, unique gin to take away.

Moira Co.Down

Then, head east to Moira, a small, unassuming town in Co. Down, rapidly becoming a mini Irish food Mecca. Travel via the Orchard County Armagh where both Armagh Cider Company and Longmeadow Cider offer tastings and tours for an enjoyable stop on the way. In Moira, eat at Chris McGowan’s Michelin Bib Gourmand awarded, Wine and Brine or for a more traditional gastro pub setting and menu (including a good vegetarian option) try Clenaghan’s, who also do comfortable self-catering accommodation. Two first class food stores in Moira are Ispini Charcuterie and Hannan Meats. Both offer their own fantastic meats, fresh and cured, alongside a treasure trove of local artisan produce. Pick up some delectable Abernethy Butter, Ballylisk Triple Rose cheese (think a slightly funkier Chaource) or multi award winning raw milk blue cheese, Young Buck.

Armagh Apple Cider

Head for Hillsborough Castle, Northern Ireland’s royal and state residence, which sits at the top of the pretty, well-kept town of Hillsborough. Visit the castle and gardens and enjoy food made from their own walled garden produce, then dine at chic Hara Restaurant, a short walk from the castle gates. Fall into a four-poster bed at the gorgeous Newforge House and build up your energy and appetite for one of Ireland’s best breakfasts next morning.

Newgrange Co. Meath

On your way back to Dublin, both the famous neolithic Newgrange World Heritage site in the heart of the Boyne Valley and the 18th century Tankardstown House and Gardens, are well worth a detour. There you will find 80 acres of formal gardens, woodland and parkland to explore, and you can also enjoy a casual lunch in the Brabazon restaurant before heading to the port for the trip home.

Suggested Itinerary

Suggested Itinerary - Ireland

Meath - Cavan

  • Dublin Port ➔ Slane Castle 45 mins/55km
  • Slane Castle ➔ Sheridans Kells 35 mins/35km
  • Sheridans Kells ➔ Sheelin Shepherd’s Hut 23mins/22km

Gourmet Day/Night Enniskillen

  • Sheelin ➔ Enniskillen 1hr 8mins/71 km

Tyrone / Down

  • Enniskillen ➔ Aghyaran 25 mins/47km
  • Aghyaran ➔ Craigavon 1hr 26mins/104km
  • Craigavon ➔ Moira 22 mins/27km

Hillsborough

  • Moira ➔ Hillsborough 13 mins/13km

Dublin

  • Hillsborough ➔ Newgrange 1hr 10 mins/105km
  • Newgrange ➔ Rathkenny 19 mins/15km
  • Rathkenny ➔ Dublin 49 mins/66km

Practical information

Places to eat

Places to shop

Places to stay

Places to visit

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